Noma

2023 - 1 - 9

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Image courtesy of "The New York Times"

Noma, Rated the World's Best Restaurant, Is Closing Its Doors (The New York Times)

The Copenhagen chef René Redzepi says fine dining at the highest level, with its grueling hours and intense workplace culture, has hit a breaking point: ...

“It’s a Mafia mentality, and he is the don,” she said of Mr. He said advance commitments and building Noma Projects — including a new production facility, with 60 to 70 full-time employees — are the reason the change will not take effect for nearly two years. He declined to provide specifics, but according to public records, he is a majority owner of Noma, and part owner of multiple popular ventures run by Noma alumni. The Noma spokeswoman said that all restaurant workers are expected to perform repetitive tasks, and that Ms. “The problem is how to pay them enough to afford children, a car and a house in the suburbs.” For that reason alone, most of the alumni interviewed said that an internship at Noma is worth the expense, the exhaustion and the stress. Hegde said she was required to work in silence by the junior chefs she assisted (Mr. Redzepi was rarely in the kitchen where she worked), and was specifically forbidden to laugh. “It’s unsustainable,” he said of the modern fine-dining model that he helped create. The cooking style became known as [New Nordic](https://www.nytimes.com/2011/08/24/dining/new-nordic-cuisine-draws-disciples.html), and swept all of Scandinavia into a new status as an elite culinary destination. His casual restaurants will remain open, but he said fine dining was no longer something he wanted to do himself, or to inflict on his staff, calling the work “backbreaking.” The style of fine dining that Noma helped create and promote around the globe — wildly innovative, labor-intensive and vastly expensive — may be undergoing a sustainability crisis.

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Image courtesy of "CNN"

Copenhagen's legendary Noma restaurant to close next year and ... (CNN)

But after years of serving dishes based on locally foraged ingredients -- from reindeer brain custard with bee pollen to a quince and fermented rice ice cream ...

We're going to go build it now." The following year it will be reborn as a "giant lab," dubbed Noma 3.0. "(It will be) a pioneering test kitchen dedicated to the work of food innovation and the development of new flavors, one that will share the fruits of our efforts more widely than ever before," the restaurant said in a statement on its website.

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Image courtesy of "CBS News"

Noma, voted the world's best restaurant, is closing its doors – but ... (CBS News)

While the restaurant will soon accept its final reservation, chef Rene Redzepi said this is not the end of its story.

In announcing the rebrand, Redzepi said he would continue to travel to learn and potentially open Noma pop-ups in different places. After its previous re-branding, [it ranked No, 1 again](https://www.theworlds50best.com/the-list/1-10/Noma.html) in 2021. This is not the first time Noma has closed and re-branded. The However, the iconic Copenhagen, Denmark restaurant is expected to reopen in a new capacity. "Noma as you know it is closing as we begin a new chapter.

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Image courtesy of "Bon Appetit"

Noma Is Permanently Closing. Here's Everything to Know (Bon Appetit)

The Copenhagen restaurant that defined an era of fine dining announced that it will close its doors in 2024.

In the world of fine dining, interns are rarely paid, and routinely asked to maintain grueling work hours in exchange for the invaluable “experience” of working at a top restaurant. As Noma prepares to close, here are six allegations about working conditions that some interns faced at Noma. “Winter 2024 will be the last season of noma as we know it.” The restaurant is known for fantastical and sometimes eye roll–worthy dishes like Moldy Egg Tart and Reindeer Heart Tartare and garnered three Michelin stars in 2021, as well as several first-place rankings on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Once the restaurant closes its doors this final time, Noma will transform into a full-time food lab, which essentially means the newest player in the world of direct-to-consumer food products (like [Wild Rose Vinegar](https://nomaprojects.com/products/wild-rose-vinegar) and [Smoked Mushroom Garum](https://nomaprojects.com/products/smoked-mushroom-garum)) is the world’s most famous restaurant. “Financially and emotionally, as an employer and as a human being, it just doesn’t work.” No, really: After several announcements over the years that Noma was [temporarily closing](https://www.eater.com/2015/9/14/9324311/rene-redzepi-closes-noma-urban-garden), opening up pop-up locations in [Mexico](https://www.eater.com/2017/4/11/15259192/rene-redzepi-noma-mexico-tulum-open), [Japan](https://www.eater.com/2015/1/9/7520049/inside-noma-japan-ants-chocolate-covered-mushrooms-tokyo), or [Australia](https://www.eater.com/2016/1/28/10860246/noma-australia-menu-photos), becoming a [pandemic-era burger joint](https://www.theguardian.com/food/2020/nov/22/hold-the-18-course-dinners-noma-chef-opens-up-a-burger-joint) or otherwise reinventing itself, the renowned restaurant is shutting down.

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Image courtesy of "Eater"

Noma Is Closing in 2024 and You Will Be Okay (Eater)

Sea snails on Noma's first seafood menu. A yellow ramekin of sea snails on a gray plate. Jason Loucas/Noma. Like many whose Google News ...

And I hope that the next time a place exists that influences global cuisine so much, it is not because of fanaticism around a singular supposed genius, or the [rigidity of its philosophy](https://www.eater.com/2018/3/13/17102098/rene-redzepi-noma-restaurant-culinary-philosophy-conservative) (which [one Danish newspaper described](https://theworld.org/stories/2012-04-08/fascist-food-fight) as “fascism in avant-garde clothing”), but because it models some sort of real sustainability, both environmentally and in labor. Outside the cost and the schlep, Noma always seemed like it was built on the assumption of a diner’s reverence. There are enough Noma alums — and alums of restaurants opened by Noma alums — that Noma is all around us. [closing next year](https://london.eater.com/23546160/worlds-best-restaurant-noma-closing-rene-redzepi-copenhagen?_gl=1*7lp0od*) (to focus on e-commerce and the occasional pop-up). Dinner with a wine pairing [is 5,500](https://noma.dk/reservations/) krone (currently nearly $800), which amazingly is not as expensive as [some tasting menus in New York](https://ny.eater.com/2023/1/5/23539650/per-se-thomas-keller-tasting-menu-inflation-2023-nyc-restaurants), but is still a lot. Maybe I should have saved my money and used every connection possible to get a reservation and it would have been a singularly transcendent experience.

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Image courtesy of "Vulture"

Noma, The Menu-est of Restaurants, Is Closing (Vulture)

The famed Copenhagen restaurant Noma, voted the World's Best Restaurant multiple times, is closing its doors. Chef René Redzepi's fine-dining destination ...

The home gourmand e-commerce route is certainly one way to give a legendary restaurant with a difficult chef a dignified ending; [The Menu’s](https://www.vulture.com/article/the-menu-movie-restaurants-adam-platt.html) s’mores approach is another. These conditions, paired with the fastidious nature of the restaurant experience for customers, were one source of inspiration for Mark Mylod’s 2022 fine-dining satire [The Menu](https://www.vulture.com/article/the-menu-review-a-deliciously-mean-satire.html). In an interview with Thrillist, production designer Ethan Tobman [cited Noma](https://www.thrillist.com/eat/nation/the-menu-movie-behind-the-scenes-food) as an inspiration for the film’s fictional hyperlocal, hyperexpensive restaurant, Hawthorn. [Blue Hill at Stone Barns](https://www.eater.com/22996588/blue-hill-stone-barns-dan-barber-restaurant-work-environment-ingredients). “This is simply too hard, and we have to work in a different way.” Noma charges over $400 a seating before wine pairings, but it only began paying interns this past October. This news comes months after conductor Lydia Tár quipped in the hit film Tár that a nervous student’s music “sounds like René Redzepi’s recipe for reindeer.” Whether Redzepi is shuttering his successful culinary destination in direct response to getting epically owned by Lydia Tár has not been confirmed, but we mustn’t dismiss the possibility.

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Image courtesy of "WJCT NEWS"

Famed Danish restaurant Noma will close by 2024 to open a test ... (WJCT NEWS)

Chef Rene Redzepi's house of Nordic gastronomy will close by the winter of 2024 and re-emerge as Noma 3.0, the Copenhagen eatery said on its webpage.

Noma — a contraction of the Danish words for Nordisk and Mad, meaning Nordic and food, opened in 2003. Instead, much of our time will be spent on exploring new projects and developing many more ideas and products." After the sojourn, "we will do a season in Copenhagen."

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Image courtesy of "NPR"

Famed Danish restaurant Noma will close by 2024 to make way for ... (NPR)

Chef Rene Redzepi's house of Nordic gastronomy will close by the winter of 2024 and re-emerge as Noma 3.0, the Copenhagen eatery said on its webpage.

Noma — a contraction of the Danish words for Nordisk and Mad, meaning Nordic and food, opened in 2003. Instead, much of our time will be spent on exploring new projects and developing many more ideas and products." After the sojourn, "we will do a season in Copenhagen."

Post cover
Image courtesy of "WJCT NEWS"

Famed Danish restaurant Noma will close by 2024 to make way for ... (WJCT NEWS)

Chef Rene Redzepi's house of Nordic gastronomy will close by the winter of 2024 and re-emerge as Noma 3.0, the Copenhagen eatery said on its webpage.

Noma — a contraction of the Danish words for Nordisk and Mad, meaning Nordic and food, opened in 2003. Instead, much of our time will be spent on exploring new projects and developing many more ideas and products." After the sojourn, "we will do a season in Copenhagen."

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Image courtesy of "The Washington Post"

Noma and the Search for a Second Act (The Washington Post)

Ferran was the trailblazing wizard of El Bulli on the Costa Brava— a supremely innovative kitchen that made culinary history. Rene had worked there briefly and ...

While Jose has built a successful business of several restaurants around the US, he has also become a secular saint. Munk is too young to have eaten at Ferran’s restaurant but he was enraptured by the presence of the master. It’s great to be part of history — but not really comforting to know you have become part of the past. In the interim, he took his operation overseas for elaborate pop-ups. However successful the endeavor, the next chapter will be very different from being the acclaimed chef of the best restaurant in the world. He had been working hard to turn the site of El Bulli into a center for innovation in all endeavors. I’d been following the evolution of the post-restaurant El Bulli and was aware that Ferran had so many ideas for the project that shaping it had become a monumental task in itself. I could see how he beamed when we ate at Rasmus Munk’s acclaimed Alchemist, where the cuisine is, in many ways, a living tribute to El Bulli. Rene had worked there briefly and credits Ferran with freeing the imagination of cooks around the world from the dominance of French gastronomy. That ambition had gotten a lot of attention but most of it derived from Ferran’s own compelling personality and his historic role in making Spain a mecca for the culinary avant-garde — or as he prefers to say in Spanish, la vanguardia. The news that he will close its doors as a restaurant at the end of 2024 brought me back to the afternoon of Sept. Ferran was the trailblazing wizard of El Bulli on the Costa Brava— a supremely innovative kitchen that made culinary history.

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Image courtesy of "The Washington Post"

World-renowned restaurant Noma to close, citing 'unsustainable ... (The Washington Post)

When chef René Redzepi opened Noma restaurant in Copenhagen in 2003, some critics jeered at his ambitious plan. How could one possibly offer a menu of only ...

The chef himself admitted in a 2015 essay that he had been a bully of a boss who had yelled and “pushed people,” and since then has said that he has done therapy to deal with his anger. “So I brought that back and applied it to my own environment, to Charleston.” “This is a crisis of the chef as artist.” “He’s so well-known now, he can just do private events, cook for billionaires, special weddings and work two months a year or whatever and make more than he’s making in the restaurant,” Cowen says. Dining there was as much about the experience as the food, which included reindeer and foraged greens. Paul Freeman, a history professor at Yale and the author of “Why Food Matters,” said that the labor issue was just one challenge to Redzepi’s model. At the end, the astronomical ambitions in the kitchen resulted in Noma growing into a monster that was impossible to master, even by its own creator.” in a restaurant when you can set your own schedule and price discriminate, charging the super wealthy?” For decades, chefs — even the celebrities considered to be at the height of their profession — weren’t expected to constantly and totally reinvent the culinary wheel. His creation of what came to be known as the “New Nordic” cuisine prompted imitators around the globe. “Serving guests will still be a part of who we are, but being a restaurant will no longer define us,” read a note to customers on the restaurant’s website hailing the new incarnation as Noma 3.0. The restaurant in 2025 will morph into a “giant lab” that will host pop-ups and/or temporarily open for a season, as well as develop products for the company’s e-commerce arm.

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Image courtesy of "PEOPLE.com"

World's Best Restaurant Noma, Which Often Served Reindeer Penis ... (PEOPLE.com)

Noma's chef René Redzeppi called the business model "unsustainable"

"In 2025, our restaurant is transforming into a giant lab – a pioneering test kitchen dedicated to the work of food innovation and the development of new flavors." Additionally, throughout the show's first season, the restaurant's pastry cook Marcus, who's played by Lionel Boyce, is seen closely studying and replicating some of the techniques found in The Noma Guide to Fermentation. Alongside the reindeer's penis, the cooks at Noma made use of the heart, blood, and even the brain. The Copenhagen restaurant's chef and creator, [René Redzeppi told The New York Times the establishment would shut down](https://www.nytimes.com/2023/01/09/dining/noma-closing-rene-redzepi.html) regular service at the end of 2024, citing the "unsustainable" business model found in fine dining. "Today in school your son shared with his classmates that you are in Copenhagen on an adult trip and have been eating (pardon my language) 'tons of penis,'" the email read. The picture of the Noma menu had the restaurant's reindeer penis ragout circled among the 15 courses.

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